Provence Favorites: Les Alpilles
Provence is a beautiful, vast region in the South East of France, that offers a variety of landscapes for the pleasure of our eyes. In this blog series called “Provence Favorites,” I explore some gems that left a mark on my childhood or that I’ve recently rediscovered. If you’re working on your own Provence itinerary and looking for suggestions, be sure to download my FREE guide at the end of this post!
Ok, let’s start with the beautiful, preserved, Parc Naturel des Alpilles. As the name suggests, it is made of pointed hills (“Alps” shapes), surrounded by lovely villages. I spent my teen years and early twenties living near Eygalières, at the foot of les Alpilles, so I am very familiar with that specific area. Here are some of my favorite places.
1. Saint Rémy de Provence, the artist town
Nestled in the heart of les Alpilles, Saint-Rémy is a lovely town to visit for shopping (its weekly Provençal market takes place every Wednesday), for good food or simply strolling around, as the old town is all pedestrian.
At its outskirts are the ancient ruins and archaeological site of Glanum, a must-see for the lovers of Roman history. Saint-Rémy is also known as the inspiration for many of Van Gogh’s masterpieces (such as Starry Night). The psychiatric hospital of Saint Paul de Mausole where he committed himself in May 1889, along with his room, can be visited today.
In the summer, the town hosts a weekly artisan market at night where you can discover the artistry and craftsmanship of talented local artisans.
Where to shop:
Love in St Rémy boutique, for its enchanting scents and authentic Provençal flair
Where to eat:
Le Château des Alpilles ($$$$), for its grand setting and elevated dishes
2. Eygalières, the (not so) hidden gem
Eygalières is an old, quiet village of 1,740 inhabitants (though we count way more in the summer), with a history (and ruins) from the medieval times. Only 10 minutes away from Saint Rémy, it is surrounded by olive groves, vineyards and green valleys. The top of the village offers magnificent views of the Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles.
I love going to its weekly market on Friday morning. Our tradition is to get a croissant at the boulangerie de Provence then check out the various products of the markets: home decor, handmade jewelry, hats and baskets, honey and jams, spices, tablecloths… and watch the magic unfold of talented oil painter (see picture below).
Where to eat:
Chez Paulette ($) for its authentic cuisine
Le Lézard Gourmand ($$) for an intimate dinner by the pool
Where to sleep:
Mas de la Rose ($$$$) for the ultimate Provençal experience
3. Maussane-les-Alpilles, capitale of olives
On the South side of the Alpilles is the cute village of Maussane-les-Alpilles. It is surrounded by vast olive plantations and countryside, and is one of the largest producers of olive oil.
Downtown, its central square by the church offers lots of options for food and beverage. Grab a table under the shades of the plane trees, and enjoy people-watching! For a taste of Provence to bring home, make sure to visit the boutique of Jean Martin. They have delicious tapenade, caviar d’aubergines, soups, sauces and other Provençal treats. And of course, stop by Moulin Jean-Marie Cornille to delight your buds with an olive oil tasting.
Where to eat:
Le Clos Saint Roch ($$), for its local and tasteful cuisine
Where to shop:
Jean Martin shop for a delicious taste of Provence to bring home
Le Caviste de Maussane (large selection of local wines and brocante items)
Maussane-les-Alpilles (source: Google)
4. Les Baux de Provence, the medieval village
Named one of the most beautiful villages of France, les Baux de Provence is known for its medieval castle and history. Perched on top of a hill, it offers breathtaking views of the Parc Régional des Alpilles, the olive groves and surrounding green valleys around. It is a very touristic destination that can be crowded in the summer, but definitely worth a visit.
At the bottom of the village, the must-see old quarries host the Carrières des Lumières exhibition, which consists of seasonal art and light shows (currently, it’s about Venice and Klein).
Where to eat:
La Cabro d’Or ($$$$), highly recommended by my best friend Ingrid
Where to drink:
Domaine de Manville ($$$)
credit: Jaakko Kemppainen on Unsplash
5. Fontvieille, heritage and outdoors
Known for its windmills and Roman-era aqueducs, Fontvieille is a small town which was lovingly chronicled by the famous Provençal author Alphonse Daudet.
Located between Arles and Les-Baux-de-Provence, it offers a variety of landscapes that makes it the perfect spot for hiking or horseback riding.
Once you’ve seen the Aqueduc de Barbegal, make a stop at 10th century Abbaye de Montmajour for a picnic.
Where to eat:
La Table d’Estoublon ($$$), for an unforgettable lunch
For oil tasting in les Alpilles, check out this interactive map.
Needless to say that les Alpilles hold a special place in my heart. I feel so very fortunate to have grown up surrounded by so much beauty and hope you’ll consider exploring this region too! If you’d looking for more suggestions on places to visit in Provence, be sure to download our FREE guide.